In-Season: Potatoes
Whether boiled, mashed, roasted, steamed, fried or baked, potatoes have become an integral part of American cuisine, and for good reason. I like to think of them as shapeshifters. These spuds can be p...
Roasted Garlic Duchess Potatoes with Mushroom Gravy
Makes about 35 swirls (10 servings)
Duchess potatoes, or potatoes “à la duchesse”—a technique dating back to the 1700s in France—simply refers to a potato and egg yolk mixture that is piped or hand-molded and then baked until golden. Not only are the swirly shapes pleasing to the eye, but the tender insides and crisp outer edges elevate potatoes to a perfect statement dish for a holiday table. Plus, they can easily be made in advance for a crowd.*
Mushroom Gravy
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
16 ounces portobello mushrooms, half finely chopped and half sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 cups beef or vegetable stock
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Duchess Potatoes
2 heads of garlic
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
5 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, divided
¼ cup heavy cream, room temperature
6 large egg yolks, room temperature
Minced parsley, for serving
To make the mushroom gravy, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and add the shallots and mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are browned and their moisture is gone, about 20 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
Slowly whisk in the stock and keep whisking until smooth and no lumps of flour remain. Add the thyme, soy sauce, salt and pepper. Bring the gravy to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat; the gravy will continue to thicken. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
To make the potatoes, preheat the oven to 350°. Slice the top off each head of garlic, exposing the cloves. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with a dash of salt and pepper. Wrap tightly in foil. Bake for around 1 hour or until the cloves are soft and caramelized. When the garlic is cooked, unwrap the foil and let cool. When cool enough to handle, squeeze out the cloves onto a cutting board. Smash well with a fork and set aside.
Meanwhile, place the diced potatoes and 1 tablespoon of salt in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a gentle boil and cook the potatoes until fork-tender, about 15 minutes.
When the potatoes are tender, drain and let them cool in the colander for about 5 minutes. Place the potatoes back into the pot. Add 6 tablespoons butter and the cream and mash well. If the potatoes are still steaming, let them cool slightly before adding the egg yolks, a few at a time, and continue mashing and mixing until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Increase the oven temperature to 400°. Spoon the potato mixture into a piping bag fitted with a large star tip. On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, pipe the mixture into 2.5 inch-wide swirly domes. Melt the remaining butter and drizzle over each swirl. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture. Bake each tray in the oven for 18 to 20 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with chopped parsley and Mushroom Gravy.
*The Duchess Potatoes and Mushroom Gravy can be made in advance. Once the potatoes have been piped onto the baking sheet, place the pan in the freezer. When the swirls are frozen, transfer to a sealed container and store for up to 3 months. To bake, simply place them back on a parchment-lined tray straight from the freezer, drizzle with melted butter and bake for 25 to 30 minutes (about 10 minutes longer than usual). The Mushroom Gravy can be made up to 5 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator. To serve, simply rewarm gently on the stove.
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