This recipe is inspired by various recipes in Elizabeth David’s Italian Food. David’s recipes typically omit detailed ingredient quantities. Why? Because no two onions are identical. Spices are of different strengths. Salt varies in density. Beef from different cows won’t be quite the same.

And, if you want to cook like an Italian, you must use few ingredients but make sure each is good. So, for many dishes you don’t need to be all that precise; it will taste good because you start with good things. Though I’ve given measurable quantities, treat them as guidelines, not laws. Want more onion? Add some. Don’t want to notice the onion in the final dish? Chop it fine instead of slicing it. Taste as you go, and you’ll be happy with what you get.

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Serves 6–8

Melt the butter over medium-low heat in a pot broad enough to hold all the beef in one layer and deep enough to simmer the stew in. Add the onion and garlic, sprinkle with a teaspoon of salt, stir to coat, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until translucent or brown (15 to 20 minutes). If you leave the lid on for the first few minutes, the steam helps soften the onions faster, then you can quickly cook off the moisture by taking the lid off.

Add the herbs, carrot and another teaspoon of salt. Cook for 1 minute. Then remove with tongs to a bowl, and crank up the heat.

Add the beef and brown for a couple of minutes, stirring so all sides get some color. Then pour in the wine and scrape all the brown beef goodness from the bottom of the pot. Add the cooked vegetable mix back in and pour in the tomatoes.

Reduce heat to low and stir to break up the tomatoes a bit. Then mostly cover the pot (leave open a crack for a bit of heat to escape).

Cook at a very slow simmer for 2 to 3 hours, stirring occasionally, until the beef and carrots are tender. If there’s too much liquid, turn up the heat for a couple of minutes to cook some of it off. Season with salt to taste.