Serves 4

A staple in traditional Japanese cuisine, miso is a thick, salty, fermented soybean paste. Like mushrooms, it’s rich in umami. When cooked together in the same dish, miso and mushrooms amplify each other’s best qualities, resulting in a deeply savory sauce that coats the pasta without feeling too heavy. Tearing the mushrooms rather than chopping them creates an intentional mix of textures, allowing some pieces to crisp up while others stay tender and absorb the sauce. For the best variety of textures, use at least 3 types of mushrooms—shiitake, oyster and lion’s mane make an excellent combination. Don’t forget to toss the shiitake stems into your pasta water for an extra boost of mushroom flavor.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1½ pounds mushrooms, roughly torn

1 pound dried pasta, any shape

1 tablespoon soy sauce

6 garlic cloves, sliced

½ teaspoon freshly grated ginger

1 shallot, minced

4 tablespoons white miso paste

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons maple syrup

Salt and pepper to taste

Sliced scallions, for serving

Microgreens, for serving

Crushed red pepper flakes, for serving

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While the water comes to a boil, begin cooking the mushrooms. In a large and deep skillet set over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the butter and half of the torn mushrooms. Cook until the mushrooms release their moisture and begin to brown, about 7 minutes. Move the browned mushrooms to a bowl, then add another 2 tablespoons of butter to the hot pan and brown the remaining mushrooms. When the water comes to a boil, begin cooking the pasta according to package directions.

While the pasta cooks, add all of the mushrooms back into the hot skillet, and reduce the heat to low. Push the mushrooms to the outside of the pan, creating a gap in the center. To the center gap, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and shallot. Cook until the aromatics are fragrant and slightly golden, stirring often, about 3 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat. In a small bowl, add about ½ cup of the hot water the pasta is cooking in and whisk in the miso paste until smooth. Into the warm pan of mushrooms, add the miso mixture, lemon zest and juice, maple syrup, salt and pepper. Toss to combine. With a skimmer or mesh strainer, remove any shiitake stems, if used, and discard, then scoop the cooked pasta directly in with the mushroom mixture. Toss until the pasta is coated in the sauce, adding more pasta water if the sauce seems too thick. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Serve immediately and top with scallions, microgreens and chili flakes.